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Learn make guitar videos

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The making of a harp guitar had been at the back of my mind for some time. I had seen several of them in a museum in Vermillion, Sth Dakota, USA, during one of my trips.The Shrine to Music Museum had one Stradivarius guitar on show. He only made a handful of guitars, so it was great to see it. Anyway, you can’t make a harp guitar from normal guitar wood sizes, so over the years, I kept aside longer pieces of top wood and back and side pieces. Finally, after hearing fabulous harp guitar players like Stephen Bennett play, it just spurred me on to get one finished. I dug out my old issues of the guild of american luthiers mags, and poured over all the pics of harp guitars. A lot of the pics were of the inside of instruments, so the top bracing pattern was on show, and I could get an idea of the amount of bracing required.

The first thing I did was to use my drawing machine to draw up the outline of the instrument. I cheat as much as I can, so I used one of my acoustics with an M38 Martin shape as a guide. I used the pattern from when I made that shape guitar, and copied it onto the drawing sheet. I could only go as far as where the bass side of the body dives off to become the bass arm. The rest of the outline was proportioned from the small pictures I had access to. I have kept this drawing intact, and continue to use it when I make a harp guitar. I have used california redwood for the top, and black wattle for the back and sides. The neck is sapele. Hope you get something out of watching this video.

[flv:http://www.learntomakeaguitar.com/Learnmakeguitarvideos/Learn-to-make-a-harp-guitar.flv 480 290]

Learn to make a harp guitar

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I was doing a series of short 30sec. videos, but decided to upgrade to a full length video showing the whole process in one hit. There are more than 60 photos strung together.

Making a harp guitar 1

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Making a harp guitar 2

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Doubleneck electric guitar/bass

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I get pretty excited when I finish a new project. This is my latest custom order, a doublenecked 6 string guitar and 4 string bass. It has my own P90 style handwound pickups in the 6 string section and Stewmac “select” bass pickups. There are two output jacks, so the bass can be played through a bass amp, and the 6 string guitar can be played through a separate guitar amp. I would envision this instrument to be handled much like a harp guitar, where both necks are utilized at the same time. My client has a one man show called “the loose and nasty show”, so if you are in Sth-east Qld., keep a lookout for him.[caption id="attachment_160" align="alignnone" width="167" caption="silky oak/sapele double neck guitar/bass"][/caption]

000 dimensions

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[caption id="attachment_118" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="000 size body dimensions"] These are the dimensions so you can draw the shape of your guitar, as shown in the video in my membership site : www.desdiyguitars.com000 size body dimensions[/caption]

Tenor guitar

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[caption id="attachment_93" align="alignleft" width="150" caption="Top overhang trimmed"]Top overhang trimmed[/caption] [caption id="attachment_94" align="alignleft" width="150" caption="Back edges trimmed"]Back edges trimmed[/caption]
Gluing top to sides
Gluing top to sides
I am now ready to sand the linings level. It is best if one has a 24″ square sanding board covered with 80 grit paper, but most of us will have to make do with a 3″ or 4″ wide stick. The ends of the braces on the top and back should be positioned inside the outline drawn on them, if not, trim off the ones that are too long. The top and back are test fitted on the sides, then it is time to spread the glue (Titebond) all around the kerfing and end blocks. Position the plate being fastened and use as many clamps as possible. The top is glued on first and clamped down to the underside of the workboard, and allowed to dry, whereas the back is clamped in a separate procedure. The body remains free floating and the clamps applied from the top plate to the back plate. Because of the curvature of the back braces, one cannot place the back on a flat workboard and start clamping up, or else the back would be deformed. Allow 3 or 4 hours to dry. The overlapping sides can now be trimmed back.
Top and back overlaping sides
Top and back overlaping sides
[caption id="attachment_92" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Back being clamped to sides"]Back being clamped to sides[/caption]

Tenor guitar making

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[caption id="attachment_79" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Top and bottom lining in place"]Top and bottom lining in place[/caption]
bent sides,endblocks glued
bent sides,endblocks glued

The shape of the body is drawn on the workboard, and the vertical posts are placed around the perimeter at strategic spots.The bent sides are placed in the makeshift mold and spreader clamps can be placed across the sides to hold them in place while they dry. Remember that a few minutes before all this, they were immersed in a water trough before the bending started.Leave overnight before gluing in the end blocks.Careful alignment of the blocks is needed before the blocks are clamped.Do not get glue on the workboard, as we want to be able to get the side assembly out.

Kerfed lining can be cut to form on your bandsaw, or it can be supplied by luthier supply places.Select a length of it and glue it to the sides using camping pegs as clamps.Cam clamps may be needed to hold the sides vertical on to the posts.Leave to dry for 3 hours before going on to the next phase.Small pieces of kerfing may be needed to close off any shortfall.

[caption id="attachment_77" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Back braces being planed to shape"]Back braces being planed to shape[/caption]
Lining being glued to sides
Lining being glued to sides

After all the back braces have been glued to the back, use a small hand plane to shape them. If the braces have been precurved, be careful that you plane from the center of the back to the outer edge.The braces can then be fine sanded to 280 grit.

Making a tenor guitar

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marking out soundhole rings
marking out soundhole rings
cutting out recesses for soundhole rings
cutting out recesses for soundhole rings
clamping the glued in rings down
clamping the glued in rings down

                   There has been a slight delay since my last post, but here I am again, continuing with my tenor guitar soundboard preparation. This is a redwood top, and it has been thicknessed down to about 2.5mm on the 16 inch drum sander.The 4″ soundhole is positioned at the end of the fingerboard. The rings are made up of thin plastic sandwiched together. A dremel tool is used with a soundhole jig attached. A 3mm hole is drilled in the soundboard to take the guide post, and the tool is swivilled around this post, cutting the recess. Careful placement of the cutter is needed to ensure an accurate fit of the rings in the recess. If the recess is wider than the cutting bit, then you will need to adjust the diameter of the cutter each time you go around.Clean out any sawdust from the recess, then fit and glue the rings in place. A wide board is needed to clamp these rings down. Allow to dry for several hours. The rings can be sanded flush under the drum sander once dry. The dremel can be used again to cut out the soundhole.Hand sand away the sharp edges of the soundhole.

acoustic guitar shapes

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[caption id="attachment_24" align="alignleft" width="150" caption="parlour"]parlour[/caption] [caption id="attachment_23" align="aligncenter" width="150" caption="000 size"]000 size[/caption] [caption id="attachment_18" align="alignright" width="150" caption="dreadnaught"]dreadnaught[/caption]

When you learn to make a guitar, you want it to sound good, and you want the shape of it to look good.Guitars of all shapes and colours have been used as a tool to attract attention for some time now. If there is a shape out there that you like, then copy it onto paper or cardboard or plywood. If you would rather have a go at drawing your own shape, then get some drawing paper (newsagents), and begin by drawing a body centerline.The length of this line will basically determine the size of the instrument. You need to mark the upper bout width, waist width, and lower bout width. The parlour guitar is the smallest shown here (photos are not quite to scale), and the dreadnaught is the largest. Once you start drawing freehand, you will soon see how tricky this process is. I was a draftsman for many years, but all my straightline drawing didn’t help much here. You need to draw fluent, elloquent lines.The jumbo guitar size is not shown here, because of the size of the wood needed to make such a guitar. You only need to draw one half of the body, because when you make the wood body template, it is flipped over on its edge to the reverse side to make an identical half.