I am now ready to sand the linings level. It is best if one has a 24″ square sanding board covered with 80 grit paper, but most of us will have to make do with a 3″ or 4″ wide stick. The ends of the braces on the top and back should be positioned inside the outline drawn on them, if not, trim off the ones that are too long. The top and back are test fitted on the sides, then it is time to spread the glue (Titebond) all around the kerfing and end blocks. Position the plate being fastened and use as many clamps as possible. The top is glued on first and clamped down to the underside of the workboard, and allowed to dry, whereas the back is clamped in a separate procedure. The body remains free floating and the clamps applied from the top plate to the back plate. Because of the curvature of the back braces, one cannot place the back on a flat workboard and start clamping up, or else the back would be deformed. Allow 3 or 4 hours to dry. The overlapping sides can now be trimmed back.

Top and back overlaping sides